Rust Tests

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html while it shows CLP much better than FP-10, FP-10 was only slightly better that bare steel (In that test), but Break Free CLP was much worse than the more solid Eezox and Corrosion X.

http://shootersolutions.com/mol1.html, which shows steel + MolyFusioned with "Nano-lube" (the current version) beat Eezox: when Eezox was forced to fail (Too much salt). FP10 was significantly better than bare steel (letting it react to the metal because Fluorine itself is corrosive) (But the conclusion was miserable failure - on that test when allowed to react for that level of time.)

When FP-10 is burned, you would have corrosive HydroFluoric gas. With Militech1 you get Hydrochloric.

For FP-10 on barrel steel, there is http://www.accuratereloading.com/rustest.html[/a] Where it did not do too well, but better than RIG # 7.

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~gnappi/talk/10_talk320.htm shows FP-10 when exposed to chlorine gas, beat WD-40 and #10, but again failed next to Eezox-Bo-Shield family of long-term protectants.

In other words FP-10 failed some long-term testing.

[URL=http://www.slip2000.com/saltwatertest.html>http://www.slip2000.com/saltwatertest.html (Slip200 website) shows they are apparently similar to Eezox and Bo-Shield with respect to the others., and BreakFree CLP has resistance - just not as an aggressive a protection.

http://www.fp10.com/TidewaterTest.htm (Fp-10 website!) shows how bad FP-10 did after 6 days: it appear it (the yuckiest looking one on the left) - Note FP-10, with this picture confirms it is not good against corrosion. On day two it was doing better than the others, though. What is important is they do not compare themselves to one of the (to the internet) benchmark products against corossion - which include the ones in the same neighborhood as Eezox.

Please note wax is apparently a novel idea for gun use. (Hmm.)

I think all of the sites pretty much match each other, and relative corossion/non-corossion differences are fairly uniform.

So Direct wax is untested (I think it will be at or near the top - Carnauba as an ingredient is powerful all on its own, and is nature's most powerful protectant that is completely nonreactive to everything (makes it good for preserving apples - beause it will pass through unreacted to acids)). To prevent the Carauba from shining, you wipe the haze dry with a damp t-shirt grade rag. One application, one coat: VERY effective, I predict only Moly-Fusion might beat it. (A different scenario is to use solvent on everything and then test cleaned steel VS unprotected steel.)

The only person I would promote with Carauba Wax, would be maybe importers - and Automotive use because it does not react with paint, diffuses UV light, and is resilient to salt.

According to http://www.zymol.com/carnauba.htm (A place that sells their homebrew wax) "Note: Pure Carnauba in its natural state is harder than concrete" (I don't know the data behind that statment, but it is pretty hard.)

Wax the way it is after the solvent evaporates is like comparing Moly-Fusion - both being concentrates.

Otherwise (Except for Carnauba Wax) at the top may be Moly-Fusion, followed by or with the universally (web) tested Eezox, Bo-Shield, SLP2000, and others comparable to the "solids" group perhaps all tying each other.

But results will vary.

My opinion, Jonathan Doege - Techshooter

My first treatise is solids are what protects, and the tests quoted seem to indicate this: More high solid content "stuff" as a percentage to the product works better for corrossion - but high solids are great for absorbing fouling, though - so we are talking about outside of the barrel.

In response to http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html, Rust tests, which show different results from the sited articles, namely Best, Break Free looks good here, but bad elsewhere. Eezox, though seems to be working better with salt than oils, Sheath also better than oils. Keep in mind this test though is not a severe apparently Best: Eezox. (Long term) Better (Short term): Break Free CLP: No rust, bright. Break Free LP: No rust, bright. Eezox: No rust, bright. Sheath: No rust, slight darkening. Very Good, was: TW25-B: Trace rust freckling, slight darkening. RemOil: Slight rust freckling on bottom. 3-in-One Oil: Trace rust. Bore Cote: Trace rust on bottom. WD-40: One small area of rust. Good was:

Rust Prevent: Two small rust spots, <20% coverage. Unsatisfactory was:

Arms Cote: >50% rusted.

Militec-1: Significant rust along bottom; rust freckling on top.

Kroil: >75% rusted.