The bolt will cycle much easier when it is applied to the upper and
side bolt surfaces. If/when you begin to add the Moly Fusion
moving parts you must be certain that there is no leftover residue to get
where it should not be, like on the engagement surfaces of the control
parts. Even residue on your fingers can accidently treat a part to an
just by inadvertently handling those parts while
treating areas that you do want treated. I have latex gloves that I use
and discard to ensure I have no "Cross contamination"
"Slickened up" my VQ action considerably, however I have done it in a
single step fashion, and tested each time in between treating each part,
and I always thoroughly clean the left over residue off of each part
before re-installing it into the action. In my case, I use acetone
it is readily available, and I feel comfortable about its ability to
remove excess product from the parts. The simple fact that I use this
product in this very precise and controlled manner should be an indicator
of how well it works
(all of my 22 lrproceedures have been based on what
happens when you don't).
Once you have things where you want them for
treatment (as well as nothing where you do not want it to be), then you
can re-adjust your action (springs, etc.) to re-gain the correct timing
for the ammo that you are using.
I haven't posted a lot of the
information that I do have concerning the use of Moly Fusion simply
because my testing is not complete, and when I do post very valuable,
I need it to be definitive to the people receiving
I will also say for now, that the use of Moly Fusion in the right
(correct for your action)
manner, I have also been able to close the gap
considerably between the difference in energy loss between a blowback
action, and a bolt action.
If say the blowback
was demonstrating an
approximate 8% loss untreated over an untreated bolt rifle, that
difference in loss has been cut into less than half of what it started out
to be. I think a properly treated blowback action can get to within 2% (or
less) of a treated bolt action.
One of the biggest features that I have
noticed, is that the difference between a cold barrel and a treated hot
barrel (they actually never
get hot after you treat them properly, they
just warm up to an even barely warm temp and then stay consistently right
) is that the difference in POI between the first cold shot and
successive shots becomes much less. Sure, I might shoot ten rounds out of
a cold barrel to "Bring it up", but it doesn't keep shifting around as
barrel temp comes up. This is even more noticeable in the HMR, and you
might imagine how incredibly valuable this might become in a .204 at over
4,000 FPS. Anyway, just some tidbits.
Yes, I see a lot of improvement from
the use of the product in my testing (all the fast moving copper stuff),
but I don't speak to 22lr. because I have very limited testing with it. It
is an effective tool, and you can gain much better performance on several
fronts within your rifle, but please use some common sense and think ahead
when you apply this product in and around a single action control
mechanism, it really works much better than people think it will.