Parkerizing, the good stuff otherwise known for Automotive and Motorcycle - and useful for - as Phosphating and/or Phoshatising, where outside of the Gun industry, Parkerizing is an unknown, and is generally a do-it-yourself project with the right equipment. It also stands for Manganese Phosphate for guns and also Zinc Manganese Phosphating for guns. US new Factory is generally soft, and from those who use normal phosphate is generally way too light. If you want better than factory and better than other results, or good results though, the chemistry is important. If you don't have to play with the Parkerizing formula with additional chemistry, and don't have to make the metal black first before Parkerizing, then your results will be much better. Here you will find in addition to chemically-complete kits, tips, suggestions, and free support up front to select and get the best results for your own gun parts, Tools, Auto Motorcycle Restoration Hardware, Automotive tools, Harley Davidson Hardware, and miscellaneous with a Parkerizing that is without doubt the best, and in easiest to use and most rugged:Zinc Parkerizing has been discontinued due to it as a modern solution is much more elaborate to use and like Manganese leaves a toxic residue, replaced by better phosphate and better Manganese. Better phosphate for painting by far is either the Manganese or the Bare metal 4C metal prep.
The chemistry the Heavy Duty Industrial is complicated for strength and best results, including not shrinking the parts due to no or not enough nickel acid, not to mention including the option of the NOW Military-required to the metal, grain refiner, as well as not shrinking the surface:
Below are three posts in a row from three random customers from some time ago on Parkerizing and in reference to purchased parkerizing kits some years ago who posted these results on the FAL Files, and enhanced since.
I'll put up some of the recent testimonials and picture received over the recent couple of years. But the below are history:
The Heavy-duty kits are what you want. They are something else, if this type is better for you (much more metal, nickel plate, which is expensive, yet extremely desirable"). If you want dark or black Manganese instead of light gray Manganese, you want either of this website's description of the Manganese: Heavy Duty or Industrial. Don't even consider any other product. There is no comparison. If you want durability, corrosion resistance original-style, then there is no other product that compares with the standard industrial heavy-duty Zinc, even though Zinc is completely worthless in corrosion resistance and lubricity as Manganese. It's why it is no longer available. This Manganese does not need the pre-blackener to create a smut first to impregnate for a black smut/zinc Parkerizing. You should use it by itself, as any Antimony Tri-chloride vapor included in Zinc pre-black creates absolutely permanent irrevocable damage to the lungs, as well as liquid drag out destroys the phosphate bath during contact. Note acid vapors are toxic - acid vapors should not be breathed, they are for metal, not organic matter. While it will destroy chlorinated oil, it is bad for the lungs. On top of that, this Manganese is known for its naturally black look as opposed to the competition's light gray in comparison. The reason for black Vs gray is more reaction with the metal.
With our products, you can Parkerize any metal that contains carbon, and is not on the list of metal you can't Parkerize below. It is not possible to Parkerize non-carbon steel like stainless, or plated steels, like nickel plated, zinc plated, etc. without removing the plating first. Nor can you parkerize non-ferrous metals like aluminum.
The type of 'Parkerizing" we have starts out with acid, and adds metals of various types and rust proofing "welded" to the existing steel, to create a new, good looking and/or durable rust-resistant finish that makes for a good oiling or painting surface. Our Shootersolutions Heavy Duty Industrial is the very best that we can generate so it will have the best chance of producing results for you..
Customers always say the instructions and tips are simple and easy to use, plus help in instruction is available. I call back by phone if more help is needed. We want to work with you to make sure each of you is happy with your results, and everyone else is, also.
One customer, a purchasing agent for a Semi-Automatic Gun Manufacturer said he got better results on his own than factory finished parts. He especially noticed how good the finish was and is. When you're saving the money on labor, you want a good looking result. Why go for cheap? Even by the gallon why go for cheap but piddle it away with having to blacken the metal before Parkerizing. Isn't that just a bit backwards? Why not go for the "awe" factor, even if it is just your customer's "super wow effect" that is worth the money (and if it looks better than factory - or even just as good) not including durability - If it holds up better (stronger) as a result?
I'm thinking about buying some Shooters Solutions mix and trying again after re-blasting these parts. Everyone seems to like them. The big question in my mind is why didn't it "stick"? I haven't seen anyone report this problem before. If I degreased them any more they would have melted and I handled them with surgical gloves. Member FALoholic # 904 [A competing, more expensive kit from Advantec (Calvan look-alike as of years ago on the switch) as not good: it is not parkerizing, but a finish "it is soft and needs to cure before rubbing"] 8-27-01 "The kit offered by Shooter's Solution is a true manganese phosphate kit and works very well." post - 8-28-01. (Our products commented, and misspellings on purpose - there have been many more equally good reviews since then: including 2003, but the "oldie" testimonial explains why Advantec went out of business and re-entered under another name (Calvan, according to the FAL Files later: still worked no better than when named another name, but still sold on E-Bay. You should still see that testimonial somewhere).)
"Parkerize" and "Parkerizing" are equivalent terms of phosphate and phosphating as well as phosphatizing derived from the former Parker Chemical Co., which was the inventor of the process: less expensive, more rugged, and more rust resistant than bluing. Bluing was not rugged enough for War use.
Our heavy duty parkerizing gives you better-look finishes, protects your metal better than any other product, and is more simple to use a kit than anything else available anywhere. We have two main types followed by different heavy-duty types for the requirements of all Hobbyists to Professionals. We explain the details of each so you can choose, including mix 'n match, where we add a custom kit just for you.
Parkerizing can only be used on carbon (chrome-moly) steel: never Stainless Steel nor Aluminum.