Sorry this page is a couple of years out of date, but there are new pictures and testimonials to add.
One of the newest, general:
DeMarcus June 28, 2004
I loved the Park kit. More expensive than Brownells. However, after seeing an Imbel rifle done with Shooters Solutions, I had to go with it.
Fal Files, Marck 09 2003:
truth be told the stuff rules from shooters solution rules, a bro did his fal and i did my mauser 98 and it was simple( providing you have the equipment) the parkerizing worked in a matter of minutes and was even and very black and continued to go darker for about a week . the stuff is kinda pricey but worth the $ . my bro treated his barrel with th moly-fusion and after 100 nato rounds it took 3 swabs and the barrel was clean . a word of advice , dont use this stuff on the bolt carrier and slides it reduces the friction so greatly that apon the firing the bolt cycles so fast your gonna get a stove pipe . trust me !
BEST Formulation: According to three public posts in a row at a one of the popular discussion lists, (identities are private)
1. one said works better than the competition in comparison analysis, ("..., ... especially pleased with Shooter's Solution.")
2. second said better than Bownell's Kit, because it was "complete, cheap, no mixing and gave me great results. The Brownells was OK but not as user friendly as the shooters." and
3. number three followed it was "Another vote for Shooter's Solution. The stuff is just about idiot proof (as I can vouch) and the results are excellent." - I have to include his pictures (from Sean TX). This is what we aim for shooter solutions from a shooter.
Phone: Monday, August 27, 2001 7:00 PM to: Jonathan Doege
Subject: Guardian Parkerizing Kit and Heavy Duty Zinc.
Donald, from Philo, Ohio, who bought Guardian Kit September 6, 2000; Heavy-Duty Gray Zinc, 2001. "I bought the Guardian a year ago, and I have found it to be amazing. With every piece of metal I tried, including low carbon tubing steel, with bead blasting and degreasing it always took the color to at least charcoal gray, black, and always very dark." What I love about it is its ease of use and the dark color I get with it. This is without the acid pre-dip you recommend. With the Heavy Duty Zinc on low carbon steel-steel, and the metal glass beaded to satin, the heavy duty zinc parkerizing seemed done on 8 minutes, as the metal stopped reacting, and nothing else happens from 8 to 180 minutes. But with the heavy duty, it stops at a light gray. It does not go on to a black color as it sits in longer, even for 180 minutes, like the Guardian does. It is a terrific finish, but it is a very different process. [If you want a parkerizing that is the darkest on metals not prepared as well, and on metal the others can't get dark, then Guardian is the choice. Zinc-Dark is unique, and proprietary]. I am going to use the acid pre-dip to better prepare the metal for this type of parkerizing.
Fal Files Testimonial The kits are a known "best of the best", and gettng better, for reasonable cost, considering how much more it is to have someone else do it.
We have pictures that can be sent by email.
Sent: Friday, July 30, 1999 9:49 PM To: Jonathan Doege Subject: Re: Parkerizing Kit
I Just wanted to let you know that I received my M-1 Receiver and parkerized it along with the other parts of my gun. The results were very impressive. I could not get my coleman stove to heat the solution more than 180 Degrees, so I had to leave it in the solution for about 30 minutes. I followed the instructions step by step and it was very easy to do. I saved at least $60 by doing it myself and I don't believe a gunsmith could do any better. Thanks!
J Sweeten -- Texas City, TX
Motorcycle: "Hi Jonathan: The HD project went very well. It was a nut and bolt restoration. Took from March to August 2000 to complete. A lot of the stuff that Harley used on the bike was parkerized back in 1946. I found that the quart size was more than adequate for the complete bike. I used the parkerizing kit on all the salvageable original fasteners, springs, levers, axles, spacers, rockers, clamps and other parts. Even "reparkerized" some reproduction parts to make the finish consistent all over the bike. A muriatic acid soak followed by glass beading and a quick wash in your cleaner prior to the parkerizing produced the most consistent finish. I followed the parkerizing bath with a 20 min soak in hot motor oil. This was a roasting pan with 3 qts oil placed on the BBQ. The kit would not work on dechromed parts if the part was not stripped down to bare iron, eg, some nickel or copper was present. Only had this problem with the license plate bracket. A bmp of the bike is attached. I think it came out very well. Not 100 point, but very close to original and very rideable. Cheers." Dave -- Montrose CO, September 22, 2000.[Guardian] "Once again I am out of parkerizing fluid, I would like to buy a larger quantity this time. You can see the results on my Web Page" -- Bill, Wisconsin Rapids, September 18, 2000.
"[handle]... I don't believe that you are doing anything wrong, just that you have a kit that may not be a true "Manganese Phosphating" kit. My first attempt at home parkerizing was with a kit from Adventec that a friend was having very little luck with. I tried and got the same results as he did, and you seem to get .... the finish seemed "gummy" in appearance and would wash/rub off when it first came out of the solution. In fact, the instructions stated that the finish would be soft and needed to "harden" before rubbing! What I have learned since makes me believe that it was not a true phosphating process, since the true process of phosphating is a conversion-coating process wherein the acid actually dissolves some of the metal from the surface and re-deposits it in the form of an insoluble metal salt onto the surface. This "salt" is a combination of iron and phosphate (in the case of iron phosphating), iron, zinc, and phosphate (in the case of zinc phosphating), or iron, manganese, and phosphate (in the case of manganese phosphating). If you leave out the manganese, what you get is iron phosphating, which has the same color as the base metal. Since the "black" does not stick, I suspect that it is not truly manganese in solution. Maybe some sort of "dye" that just acts to color the iron phosphate coating. The fact that the solution is "black" to begin with may also be a clue. The typical solution should be almost clear, with maybe a slight blue/green tinge. As I said, that was my first attempt and it almost put me off until I did some research and decided to try another type. The kit offered by Shooter's Solution is a true manganese phosphate kit and works very well." 8-28-01
Jan 18, 2001: Jonathan, Thanks for the e-mail and interest. I have been working on two FAL rifles over the past few weeks. Still have a little more work to do before they are completely finished. In general, process has been... blast to bare metal phosphate with manganese solution assemble parts into rifle on the plastic parts (butt stock, hand guards, pistol grip ... . I have used your solution several times on batches of smaller parts and larger parts (receivers, barrels) with very good success. The finish has a real nice "satiny" feel, true flat-black appearance. Am very happy with the results. I have followed your instructions and indeed discovered that the trick is to get the parts truly clean and de-greased. Will let you know how the overall projects end up when I am finished.", Galin , TX, Last update - sometime in 2004 Oops: this needs additions, or a new page from below.
Rex M1 Garand Pictures
Rex M1 Garand 2nd Pictures
AR15 Barrel - Manganese
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