• Required: Agree to enclosed end-user license agreement
• How to make Special Treatment-oils just for application!
• Mix your own treatment per the included DIY directions!
• No Moly-disulfide; No powdered metal, no PTFE; No Chlorine!
• Moly-Fusion™ rewrites the book on how to improve technology based on oil!
• Metal Conversion Treatment Technology can improve metal performance from heat rejection and friction reduction!
• Squashes Friction by eliminating stiction!
• However, CAUTIONS must be heeded exactly due to friction reduction, for example never to treat motorcycle engines with "wet clutches.", and worm gears.
• Oil-Based Moly-Fusion™ formulation for compatability with oils. Solutions are low-cost because they contain Moly-Fusion™
• Moly-Fusion™ is a surface technology.
• With Nano-Lube™
• Machine Treatment-oil ratio is 12.5% pure (1 per 8.)
• For machine shop use, gears, Auto, and more!
• For Automotive use with the enclosed Plastic Mixing Bottle.
• Since you add the oil, directions are included for creating product through the oil for both 4-cycle and 2-cycle engines, bicycle chains, drill bits, and more!

The Use is governed by the acknowledged end-user license agreement.

Cautions (Read first, and subject to change):

1. Super-concentrate, Metal Treatment for the 21st Century™.
2. Reason for what not to use it on: It is important first to know what not to use Moly-Fusion™ on. (It can change friction like it says.) It is because it changes friction so drastically, and while becoming part of the surface, cannot be removed with solvent. It IS removable, but only with extreme abrasive rubbing and not solvent. Transforming the part's surface is a process that is radical and can happen accidentally. Cautions are part of any good product that works.
3. Before you treat anything, know that Metal Treatment CHANGES the timing and other properties of part surfaces and Metal treatment of all parts should be done by a competent mechanic (Specific for what the parts will be used on and who will counsel on responsibility for failure)!
4. Some of what not to use it on: It is important NOT to use ANY form of Moly-Fusion™ on any area that must be kept a "friction" surface, including all items with "wet clutches", e.g. Japanese Motorcycle engines, Automatic Transmissions, Limited slip rear end differentials. All Worm-Gears that require anti-back-up, all Roller-type bearing (Not to be converted to "skidder" bearings) Not any hardware or nuts that must be non-loosening, Not in wheel roller bearings not pre-loaded yet (And that is just some examples of what not to use it on in Vehicles.) - For Machine and other use, this principle includes not accidentally treating any of ALL areas requiring friction: For example the threads on a screw or bolt, the portions of drill bits and end mills should be masked off, the section that needs friction to keep them from spinning in the chuck or falling out of the holder. (Accidental = getting it on your fingers and then touching an unmasked (by electrical tape fro example) surface before inserting the bit into a chuck.
5. Professional stuff: wear vinyl gloves to keep it off of your skin, and use gloves for machine-shop use or anyone that has metal embedded in the skin, where treating the metal embedded to make the surfaces no-friction would be really bad for perhaps getting the metal permanently embedded into the skin.
6. As with ALL chemicals: Keep it out of your eyes! Don't ingest it! Keep away from children!
7. Be careful NOT to use it where it should not be used. - Final time for clarity.
8. The Treatment-oil contains Mineral Oil and Mineral Oil Solvents along with Moly-Fusion™ that is in the ratio of 1 in 8, so do not accidentally ingest.
9. The "treatment-oil" itself is not for in Engine oil use or in contact with rubber or anything not compatible with Mineral Oil solvent, because it contains a solvent that is less compatible with engine seals then using the mixing bottle and pure Moly-Fusion for engine oil application.
LI>Use is governed by the end-user license agreement.
10. For engine use, follow the application directions precisely.

DIRECTIONS FOR ENGINE USE:

Easy to make Premix:

1. It is too strong to use it by itself.
2. Start by putting the pure Moly-Fusion™ according to the schedule for the engine into the DIY MIXING Bottle using an applicator stick taped onto the bottle.
3. Then make it ¾ full with motor oil.
4. Then cap the bottle and put into a standard Microwave for 30-35 seconds, at which time the plastic will feel warm as you shake it. You can use the sun, too, but the microwave is easier as long as it warms the oil.
5. Caution: Don't let the microwave allow it to get hot, since hot objects are dangerous.
6. The DIY "Mixer" Bottle is included for your convenience.
7. The applicator stick can be a stirring stick if required: Thoroughly mixed is the goal.
8. For 2 oz. and 4 oz. kits, there will be a flip-top on the 8 ounce bottle for convenience.
9. If this is warm at the same time the engine is - great.

Ratio Schedule of the Paste per Oil (and per size of kit):

Getting the premix into the engine:

1. Change the oil and filter with new oil and new filter. Leave a little aside for the premix.
2. Warm the engine until the engine is warm (or when the oil is warm)
3. Now shut the engine off, if doing the premix. (Or do the premix during warming.)
4. Be sure to shut the car off, and make sure it is secure (not going to move for safety sake) so you won't get oil on you, or have the car roll, and only then add the oil.
5. Turn the engine back on and take a short 10-15 minute trip. Initial treatment should be starting to take hold - or be done. Take a few short trips letting it cool in between if you want the quickest action, but you may notice an immediate change, but keep running it for the short trip.
6. Under no circumstances treat an engine during its break-in period, as per engine manufacturer directions.
7. A competent Professional treating a wet-clutch engine with an old clutch in place and then both removing oil and the old clutch, AND not using too much product for the job.
8. Do NOT treat any transfer box that requires friction to operate: for example when a friction additive must be added to the oil.
9. Do not treat any worm-gear transmission: for example a farm tractor transmission because the worm gear is needed to not to back up onto the operator.
10. Using it on an engine as an additive will not void the new manufacturer's warranty provided you wait until the manufacturer says it is OK. This is due for additives to US Federal Law (Magnesun Moss Act) which requires the manufacturer to only suggest type and require a minimum service-grade unless the manufacturer provides you the oil free of charge for the duration of the warranty.
11. If you are unsure of what requires friction to operate, or how much to put in something that requires some friction to operate, have a mechanic do it, as stated in the beginning.

After that:

1. It is not guaranteed for you to save fuel. It can only do what it going to do. If you only drive short distances, and use the same pressure on the gas as before, and get there faster, it still takes the same amount of fuel per mile. However, you will have arrived more quickly at no gas mpg penalty, but you will have robbed Peter to pay Paul.
2. In order to save fuel, it will be important not use all of the extra power benefit, such as accelerating the car more quickly.
3. In non-self adjusting models, you may need to re-adjust the idle speed to a lower setting, as well as other adjustments for carburetor models.
4. For racing, extra power can translate to faster starts by stepping the cam forward.
5. Moly-Fusion™ since it is a technology it is an application - metal surfaces will break in.
6. Change the oil at its next available schedule, unless the engine itself is very dirty. In other words keep an eye on the oil, and if it suddenly gets very dirty early, change the filter and add-back whatever oil you removed with the filter - or change the oil and filter if the filter alone doesn't fix it.
7. It is always best to check the oil regularly.
8. In all engines it will take periodic treatments with the break-in of sufficient wear between the treatments for break-in to occur: measured no later than 6,000 (big engines) -12,000 (small engines) miles in between applications 1 and 2, and 2 and 3. Once full treatment occurs (3 applications), once every 25,000 miles, big engines, 50,000 miles small engines, should be sufficient, depending on the engine to keep up with Moly-Fusion™ surface wear.
9. Hmm. What does the above mean? Well, results will vary based on wear and tear, oil type, short/long trips, acceleration, size of motor, person, etc.. Check the performance. When performance decreases 50% of original, treat a second time. With a small engine at 6000 miles will be great perhaps for treatment number 2, and under the same circumstances (not waiting for another drop) it may then be 12,000 miles or more
10. Additional benefits of this system of use described here is for the motor metal itself to endure longer, because it is wearing less metal against metal like it was. Now the improved metal surfaces are no longer creating any friction.
11. The most important thing you are trying to achieve is not just better performance, but huge reduction of metal wear - or the treatment is not yet complete. The goal is longevity, too.

Included is a free bottle of Moly Fusion treatment oil for your use/enjoyment. It has tons of uses, basically anywhere you would use the old "3-in-one" oil, and many, many more, keeping in mind the cautions of what not to use it Here's but a few: Ice Skate blades, chain saw, go-kart, drill bits, shears, band saw blades, electric shavers, blender motor, Wood stove door hinges, wheels/bearings (not roller bearings - they need friction to work) on just about anything.Use on: All series of steel and stainless steel, iron, Aluminum, chrome plated surfaces.

Additional Use, as example Machine Shop:

1. Remember the caution. The metal surface to be converted to a new metal should be "as clean as possible" - down to the level of metal you want to treat.
2. For product to use, Use a premix bottle or jar (with the "large" and "super-saver" kit) to make ready-to-use concentrate or grease (using grease and oil as desired.) For direct reaction on metal, the treatment-oil Ready to use already mixed is good, and it can be replace at the value of what is inside (if you don't want to provide your own oil, you can mix that with the pure Moly-Fusion for outside and any surface that mineral oil is "O.K."
3. Above room temperature is really helpful: Metal always reacts better at 130 - 180 deg F, because metal molecules move more rapidly for contact as well as expanding the "dead space."
4. For the maximum effect on steel and aluminum, the surface should be sandblasted before starting. Polishing may be used to further free surfaces of contaminants and (and rust) give a "broken in" effect ahead of the Moly-Fusion™ treatment.
5. For treating "high-performance" items while operating like cutting tools, drill bits, teeth-blades, convenience: paste should be "oiled" back to oil by adding some of the treatment oil to the paste or paste to the oil. To apply better vigorously, a "toughie" or non-abrasive course applicator can be used. (Also can be combined with an abrasive.) DO NOT OVERTREAT these surfaces, treat the work surface, and make SURE not to treat the portions not to be treated by accident. (For fool-proofing, tape off the areas not to be treated, so they will still work in the drill and end-mill.)
6. The endmill keyway is a good item, automotive linkages, step-drill bits, precision metal work surfaces that must be non-wearing, Vice screw, and more.
7. Enclosed Moly-Fusion contains non-toxic plant and mineral-based oils for penetrating into the metal and carry all the "ions" and other products to the metal. Treatment oil also has purified mineral solvent to carry the chemistry to the steel further. Do not ingest internally!
8. The first reaction is done within 20 minutes or so and much better at 130-180 ° F just like "Parkerizing". Surfaces break-in further and re-treatment. Harder metal takes longer.
9. Note: there may be distinctive gray color change with carbon steel only, (just like with Parkerizing meaning no color change in stainless) it still works on the other steels, just not a Parkerizing (Phosphating) dark color . When worked, surface may mirror in sunlight.
10. See page 12 of this booklet for the limited warrantee (Industrial Product at the Low Industrial "Not-retail" Pricing). See pages 11 and 12 for End-User License Agreement Required. (Partner Agreements may have modifications). Read every page of the manual.
11. Since directions and statements are the result of feedback from many sources, we would like to invite you as a user, to participate in the process of documentation. You agree to allow use of posts and pictures to bulletin boards provided private identity is kept private.
12. HTML feedback with digital images may be posted at website (shootersolutions.com or an info website in accordance with posted privacy policy at the website. Even then, authorization can be revoked for privacy detail, such as all direct contact information.
13. For the most current version of instructions, check http://molyfusion.com/molyfusion1.html and updates and instructions for treating other surfaces.
14. With feedback, the Machine Shop version (will be a kit all by itself with its own directions in the super-size category, with a teaser sample like this in the engine kit to try out.
15. For example, it is important not to treat any hardware before assembly, as it will impossible to make the surfaces "lock", and snapping of bolts will occur. This includes hose clamps.
16. For engine parts, all bearing surfaces and all cam lobes and associated lifters that have a problem with lubrication should be pretreated NOT waiting until the engine is built.
17. Keep in mind use this as an assembly lube where it being permanent is a good thing, not ANY part that need to "lock up" into something permanently, as in one solid piece. (reinforcing the cautions, in case they weren't noticed.)