$44.97, 2 = Qt Kit/$89.98 with 4x oil instead of 2x.
16 oz Add to Cart Page (Quantity = 2 will be a Quart Kit pictured at $79.94)
The versions of the Parkerizing kit listed below is the best there is anywhere. And the results prove it.
Pictured above is the Quart Kit.
The 16 oz kit is not pictured.
The 1 Quart Manganese in the quart kit makes 2.75 gallons before heating, or 2.5 gallons hot. It cannot be any more concentrated and shippable Non-Hazmat adding nickel harder than manganese and stronger for the black than pre-process soft copper too. 360-988-6583 for technical assistance on how the metal gets black without pre-black or post-black! Hint, the trick is to convert the surface rather than paint on top like the others.
While you will find an imitation, it is better chemistry and easy to use instructions. And not just for guns, but also for correct look Auto and Motorcycle restoration. It's the finest kit with the finest chemistry on the market so it is easy to use - if you can follow instructions, find distilled water, and are able to boil an egg. But don't take my word on it, this is what people at the FAL FILES Forums for example have said off and on over the years. It is far superior in color and density of results than the others, because its chemistry is more complicated so it is easy to use. It is a few dollars more then some, but far less money then others, but well worth it. It is chemically complete and full directions are online with the latest version supplied for easy-to-follow directions. It is designed to be easy to use, rather then trying to make it work via other products, stop watches and blood and sweat. It is easy to use because it is expensive to make.
The heavy-duty kits reacted in the same way Moly-Fusion™ is reacted, so they are self-reacting with the metal parts. It is what makes the Moly-Fusion/Industrial Heavy Duty technology superior to any other "brew" technology. Place it against Brownell's, Amerline, Calvan, and any phosphate, including newcomers to reselling cheap-grade automotive Manganese (gray) as Parkerizing, and the results are far superior. Why? It not simple, and it is not simple to manufacture. Heavy-duty is much easier to make than Moly-Fusion, but you get the idea.
While we are certainly proud of the chemical engineering put into this kit, but: Don't take our word for it, but see in the testimonials section how it compares, according to customers who have used both. A prime example is a Parkerizer in Texas who for the last few years has seen here and there in the FAL files independent reviews of Heavy Duty being superior to Brownell's, 2 customers who used the kit to get better results then he could, and the icing on the cake: a customer came in and chided him on Harley parts he parkerized. He then noticed the Shooter Solutions' Heavy duty by-the-gallon was less expensive then Brownell's, since it was complete, requiring nothing else! )And that was before they recently diluted it - so it is no longer a good concentrate.) It's time to order a gallon of each type and try out the Moly-Fusion too. No pre-black necessary, and just way superior.
In addition, the chemistry design of the kits' ingredients, including the acids in the Heavy-Duty is potent enough for absolute ease of process. Don't mess around with steel wool biscuits, Brownells' iron wire, "Pre-black", and HCl for black: all of the "extra items" added up yield inferior results at similar chemical cost when you are done, or waiting for Parkerizing to "harden" with Calvan's, have to throw away the solution when done, waiting for a thin maybe "iron" to appear and rust. This reacts on its own without extra input from you for the "idiot proof" alternative. Preparation must be still be thorough, though. Don't use HCl in preparation. The darker color you will observe is due to better ingredients. If it is not manganese you want, try the harder finish with this heavy-duty Zinc yields. It is complicated and expensive to manufacture. Darker finish with the Manganese due to extra large quantity of Nickel. It also only works on Carbon Steel - no Aluminum, brass, nor Stainless need apply.
Far superior to MIL SPEC (as good as it can be), Manganese is the type is currently used on M14, M16, FAL, FN, Motorcycle, early Automobile, Ford "Raven Black" and more. Easier to apply than bluing. It more than meets the minimum current MIL Spec for exterior weapon finishes, which requires a grain refiner supplied free: It is even better than the old Mil Spec.. Pro-Finish with these Kits: formulated for the most demanding practitioner or hobbyist, yet the cost is low for the general public.
The Zinc is gone as an exterior finish because it is more than worthless for protection against rust. Not because it was a different color or looks different, but because it is in fact worthless, and was never ever allowed for Military use except for a couple of years Manganese became scarce.
Complete directions are included, and phone support is included also.
The 2/ option gives twice as large bottles of everything, and increases shipping weight by two.
Manganese is darker than Brownell's Manganese Parkerizing, due to just being better. This was a FAL question: How come your product is reviewed by others as darker then it? Why is it black VS Brownell's gray?
Thanks for Some Recent Results: "Jonathan, Thanks for the e-mail and interest. I have been working on two FAL rifles over the past few weeks. Still have a little more work to do before they are completely finished. In general, process has been... blast to bare metal phosphate with manganese solution assemble parts into rifle on the plastic parts (butt stock, handguards, pistol grip ... . I have used your solution several times on batches of smaller parts and larger parts (receivers, barrels) with very good success. The finish has a real nice "satiny" feel, true flat-black appearance. Am very happy with the results. I have followed your instructions and indeed discovered that the trick is to get the parts truly clean and de-greased. Will let you know how the overall projects end up when I am finished.", Galin, TX
Quantity summary (Parkerizing component):
You select in the "drop down menu" one of the two options:
- 3-4-11. Help contact information (Like Phone number) is listed at the about us on the top of every page at Shooter Solutions™.
This is the half sized version of the popular bigger kits.
Shown is the more popular half-sized Manganese Kit.
Everything the same, but half as much. 8 ounces of Manganese make more than 3 quarts, To order this option, click on the order button below or call the order in.
A Sprayer is now only included in the Quart Parkerizing kit, and none here. The 4 oz, 8 oz, and double - 8 oz all have "flip-tops" and the same type of conatainer as you will see in the bluing kits and the other description of this same product. Some people make their own kit with the Parkerizing Concentrate and this.
4 oz 8 oz., 16 oz, or 32 oz of this is included in a kit depending on the kit's size. None come with a sprayer. It turns out to be a well thought-of and super fine gun oil too. But you can get this as extra or just with the Parkerizing or Bluing bottles as well as kits.
For the 4 oz and 8 oz size they have a built-in flip tol.
This is just the De-Water/Rust Protectant by itself, sprayer available seperately - scroll down.
It is, however extremely rust resistant for Bluing as well as Parkerizing solution. Not as rugged as wax or clear coat, but the next best thing to grease.
Other accessory items for the Parkerizing include the sprayer and barrel plugs
To order 8 oz, Qty = 1, 16 oz, Qty = 2, 32 oz, Qty = 4 , (4) 32 oz. = Qty = 16 (as outlined below.)
$5.99, 2/$9.97, 4/$14.99, 8/$24.96, 16/$39.99, 32/$69.99
SSPN004 Qty = Size itemid="parneutdew" itemcode="SSPN004">
The author of responses to posts, PM's etc. is techshooter, also the author of these pages.
Besides ours, do you make your own from the "free" formula? Or do you get another commercial kit?
Not unless you like risk, because they are inferior products by function. Our customers rave everywhere about our products. On the "free" formulae there is danger you can get an acid/water explosion, and other not-nice surprises. And they are not in chemical formula or performance what you can get with ours. This is also true of competitive formulas: Not as good, and/or not as "idiot proof." The chemistry charges we charge for the kits has never been a huge markup of what it costs us to create them. And as we make them better, we hold the reigns in on cost. This chemistry is way more complicated to manufacture, and more expensive than the "free" stuff. Our markeup is a fraction of what it is supposed to be in the Formualations business. We are concerned you get results. Chemicals come in second place.
If you have any question as to which version to get,, do not hesitate to call or email. The reason Zinc is no longer available at the moment is because it is not corrosion resistant.
For best color and most idiot proof, as well as lowest cost for the best quality kit and parkerizing anywhere, then pick some up. Satisfied customers include people at gun forums that do DIY make-your-own functional gun kits like the FAL files, professional Gunsmiths, Professional Motorcycle restorers, and especially all the first timers who want black of a finish of their choosing. In defense of this kit, it is much more corrossion resistant and easier to do than hot-bluing. It is a step in the right direction.
For best durability of all, maintaining the "idiot proofness" of the above, for minimal extra cost for the results, consider choosing the recommended super heavy duty Manganese, the highest price, but the best.
Manganese is a super metal, and Zinc is not. It is raw power.
So there you have a quick summary of them: all extremely good and extremely inexpensive for the quality. Kits have great bang for the buck, and will lead you on to other finishes we have, including MolyFusion.
Our Kits contain alot of high quality chemistry, and you can mix 'n match the two heavy duty kits together, and you can add Guardian for less. No other kits compare with our engineering. Remember we are High-Technology. We combine the best of the ancient with Modern Chemistry to give you the best.
We also have MolyFusion, better than any comparable product or service of its type in the World.
To assist you with which brand, here is a section from one of our customers, talking about experience: "gsmart... I don't believe that you are doing anything wrong, just that you have a kit that may not be a true "Manganese Phosphating" kit. My first attempt at home parkerizing was with a kit from Adventec that a friend was having very little luck with. I tried and got the same results as he did, and you seem to get .... the finish seemed "gummy" in appearance and would wash/rub off when it first came out of the solution. In fact, the instructions stated that the finish would be soft and needed to "harden" before rubbing! What I have learned since makes me believe that it was not a true phosphating process, since the true process of phosphating is a conversion-coating process wherein the acid actually dissolves some of the metal from the surface and re-deposits it in the form of an insoluble metal salt onto the surface. This "salt" is a combination of iron and phosphate (in the case of iron phosphating), iron, zinc, and phosphate (in the case of zinc phosphating), or iron, manganese, and phosphate (in the case of manganese phosphating). If you leave out the manganese, what you get is iron phosphating, which has the same color as the base metal. Since the "black" does not stick, I suspect that it is not truly manganese in solution. Maybe some sort of "dye" that just acts to color the iron phosphate coating. The fact that the solution is "black" to begin with may also be a clue. The typical solution should be almost clear, with maybe a slight blue/green tinge. As I said, that was my first atttempt and it almost put me off until I did some research and decided to try another type. The kit offered by Shooter's Solution is a true manganese phosphate kit and works very well. " (8-28-01)
It is important to keep the insides of your barrels unharmed after processing in anything corrosive (Like if it is likely to ever be shot, since damage will increase fouling) should be plugged. Below are reusable plugs that will stand up to heat, acid, and caustic solutions for every size of handgun, rifle, shotgun, and musket barrel to cover everything?
There is even a "sub-caliber" (too small for any firearm .17 caliber and up) plug if there are any small openings you want to keep the hot Parkerizing solutions from leaking into the barrel.
Shown below are the smallest first to the largest last, with the not-so-good multi-purpose (long) in between.
Keep in mind the order button is below the description, not above it, and the chamber plug must be either one size bigger, or two sizes bigger for the .300 necked-down to mid-caliber cartridge. Thanks.
A Quart of this Green is used for fast and easy conversion to the military-green hue added to high-density gray-charcoal gray parkerizing finishes. You use it straight from the bottle, undiluted. It is a commercial product, just like the parkerizing, with the additional hazard of including some lead pigment in the industrial resin, which means it is not to be eaten. It has to be soaked and rubbed into the fresh, hot Parkerizing at the same time you are rubbing any excess iron out. The industrial resin-dye must be pressed into the finish, and it is designed to work much quicker than letting parts soak in Cosmoline for the required number of years. In other words, it must be a more efficient method than cosmoline: it worked, but it was SLOW. Wear nylon or equiv. gloves, as it contains lead in the pigment and Industrial solvent. Once enough of it is trapped in the Parkerizing, you should be in good shape. A Terry cloth is the proper type of cloth. It is HAZMAT ORMD, just like the Parkerizing.
The directions to use tell you to use this in a separated container to dip newly parkerized parts and keep wet with an inexpensive brush. Wearing rubber gloves, take a piece of cloth with some green on it, and wipe the part off the same time you are rubbing it into the crystalline structure. Plan on 20 minutes concerted rubbing. Remember it contains lead, and is an industrial item.
Repeat the dip process one time with the rubbing if necessary. Once it "takes", it will only come off by combination wire wheeling and solvent. It is hard to remove, it bonds so well. It is the same color as the Cosmoline, just more concentrated.
Containers are special containers that handle this product inside.
I sincerely apologize this very effective green is discontinued because it needs to be refomulated to a less effective but ORMD shipping-correct non-lead and/or non-super-bad solvent, but if you start with the Parkerizing-correct Heavy-Duty Industrial Zinc (Nickel-Zinc or Zinc-Nickel to be exact) Parkerizing, I will verbally instruct you exactly how to create a color-perfect version yourself (It will require work) but I will include brand names for the best pigments. This I can't put in print, because companies in the business of making money don't want what they know to become public information.
The important thing is color will look right with minimal effort with best Parkerizing, (Not thin) like Shooter Solutions'.
Do not use old motor oil or any other technique using sulfer with Shooter Solutions', because Sulfer is absorbed into motor oil because it is corrossive to steel. It will react with the Nickel, but corroding the Nickel is not as good for longevity as leaving it strong, and using the color method.
The technique is not given here, but by phone with purchase of Zinc Parkerizing.
$24.98Sorry, this item is currently out of stock