This is the half sized version of the popular bigger kits.
Shown is the more popular half-sized Manganese Kit.
Everything the same, but half as much.
8 ounces of Manganese make more than 3 quarts,
To order this option, click on the order button below or call the order in.
A Sprayer is now only included in the Quart Parkerizing kit, and none here. The 4 oz, 8 oz, and double - 8 oz all have "flip-tops" and the same type of conatainer as you will see in the bluing kits and the other description of this same product. Some people make their own kit with the Parkerizing Concentrate and this.
4 oz 8 oz., 16 oz, or 32 oz of this is included in a kit depending on the kit's size. None come with a sprayer. It turns out to be a well thought-of and super fine gun oil too.
But you can get this as extra or just with the Parkerizing or Bluing bottles as well as kits.
For the 4 oz and 8 oz size they have a built-in flip tol.
This is just the De-Water/Rust Protectant by itself, sprayer available seperately - scroll down.
Other accessory items for the Parkerizing include the sprayer and barrel plugs
To order 8 oz, Qty = 1, 16 oz, Qty = 2, 32 oz, Qty = 4 , (4) 32 oz. = Qty = 16 (as outlined below.)
$5.99, 2/$9.97, 4/$14.99, 8/$24.96, 16/$39.99, 32/$69.99
The author of responses to posts, PM's etc. is techshooter, also the author of these pages.back
Selecting Your Parkerizing Type: With or without free grain refiner.For maximum strength and corrosion resistance, allow "With_free_grain_refiner", which is another improvement on its strength but not detracting from color.
Besides ours, do you make your own from the "free" formula? Or do you get another commercial kit?
Not unless you like risk, because they are inferior products by function. Our customers rave everywhere about our products. On the "free" formulae there is danger you can get an acid/water explosion, and other not-nice surprises. And they are not in chemical formula or performance what you can get with ours. This is also true of competitive formulas: Not as good, and/or not as "idiot proof." The chemistry charges we charge for the kits has never been a huge markup of what it costs us to create them. And as we make them better, we hold the reigns in on cost. This chemistry is way more complicated to manufacture, and more expensive than the "free" stuff. Our markeup is a fraction of what it is supposed to be in the Formualations business. We are concerned you get results. Chemicals come in second place.
If you have any question as to which version to get,, do not hesitate to call or email. The reason Zinc is no longer available at the moment is because it is not corrosion resistant.
For best color and most idiot proof, as well as lowest cost for the best quality kit and parkerizing anywhere, then pick some up. Satisfied customers include people at gun forums that do DIY make-your-own functional gun kits like the FAL files, professional Gunsmiths, Professional Motorcycle restorers, and especially all the first timers who want black of a finish of their choosing. In defense of this kit, it is much more corrossion resistant and easier to do than hot-bluing. It is a step in the right direction.
For best durability of all, maintaining the "idiot proofness" of the above, for minimal extra cost for the results, consider choosing the recommended super heavy duty Manganese, the highest price, but the best.
Manganese is a super metal, and Zinc is not. It is raw power.
So there you have a quick summary of them: all extremely good and extremely inexpensive for the quality. Kits have great bang for the buck, and will lead you on to other finishes we have, including MolyFusion.
Our Kits contain alot of high quality chemistry, and you can mix 'n match the two heavy duty kits together, and you can add Guardian for less. No other kits compare with our engineering. Remember we are High-Technology. We combine the best of the ancient with Modern Chemistry to give you the best.
We also have MolyFusion, better than any comparable product or service of its type in the World.
To assist you with which brand, here is a section from one of our customers, talking about experience: "gsmart... I don't believe that you are doing anything wrong, just that you have a kit that may not be a true "Manganese Phosphating" kit. My first attempt at home parkerizing was with a kit from Adventec that a friend was having very little luck with. I tried and got the same results as he did, and you seem to get .... the finish seemed "gummy" in appearance and would wash/rub off when it first came out of the solution. In fact, the instructions stated that the finish would be soft and needed to "harden" before rubbing! What I have learned since makes me believe that it was not a true phosphating process, since the true process of phosphating is a conversion-coating process wherein the acid actually dissolves some of the metal from the surface and re-deposits it in the form of an insoluble metal salt onto the surface. This "salt" is a combination of iron and phosphate (in the case of iron phosphating), iron, zinc, and phosphate (in the case of zinc phosphating), or iron, manganese, and phosphate (in the case of manganese phosphating). If you leave out the manganese, what you get is iron phosphating, which has the same color as the base metal. Since the "black" does not stick, I suspect that it is not truly manganese in solution. Maybe some sort of "dye" that just acts to color the iron phosphate coating. The fact that the solution is "black" to begin with may also be a clue. The typical solution should be almost clear, with maybe a slight blue/green tinge. As I said, that was my first atttempt and it almost put me off until I did some research and decided to try another type. The kit offered by Shooter's Solution is a true manganese phosphate kit and works very well. " (8-28-01)
It is important to keep the insides of your barrels unharmed after processing in anything corrosive (Like if it is likely to ever be shot, since damage will increase fouling) should be plugged. Below are reusable plugs that will stand up to heat, acid, and caustic solutions for every size of handgun, rifle, shotgun, and musket barrel to cover everything?
There is even a "sub-caliber" (too small for any firearm .17 caliber and up) plug if there are any small openings you want to keep the hot Parkerizing solutions from leaking into the barrel.
Shown below are the smallest first to the largest last, with the not-so-good multi-purpose (long) in between.
Keep in mind the order button is below the description, not above it, and the chamber plug must be either one size bigger, or two sizes bigger for the .300 necked-down to mid-caliber cartridge. Thanks.
A Quart of this Green is used for fast and easy conversion to the military-green hue added to high-density gray-charcoal gray parkerizing finishes. You use it straight from the bottle, undiluted. It is a commercial product, just like the parkerizing, with the additional hazard of including some lead pigment in the industrial resin, which means it is not to be eaten. It has to be soaked and rubbed into the fresh, hot Parkerizing at the same time you are rubbing any excess iron out. The industrial resin-dye must be pressed into the finish, and it is designed to work much quicker than letting parts soak in Cosmoline for the required number of years. In other words, it must be a more efficient method than cosmoline: it worked, but it was SLOW. Wear nylon or equiv. gloves, as it contains lead in the pigment and Industrial solvent. Once enough of it is trapped in the Parkerizing, you should be in good shape. A Terry cloth is the proper type of cloth. It is HAZMAT ORMD, just like the Parkerizing.
The directions to use tell you to use this in a separated container to dip newly parkerized parts and keep wet with an inexpensive brush. Wearing rubber gloves, take a piece of cloth with some green on it, and wipe the part off the same time you are rubbing it into the crystalline structure. Plan on 20 minutes concerted rubbing. Remember it contains lead, and is an industrial item.
Repeat the dip process one time with the rubbing if necessary. Once it "takes", it will only come off by combination wire wheeling and solvent. It is hard to remove, it bonds so well. It is the same color as the Cosmoline, just more concentrated.
Containers are special containers that handle this product inside.
I sincerely apologize this very effective green is discontinued because it needs to be refomulated to a less effective but ORMD shipping-correct non-lead and/or non-super-bad solvent, but if you start with the Parkerizing-correct Heavy-Duty Industrial Zinc (Nickel-Zinc or Zinc-Nickel to be exact) Parkerizing, I will verbally instruct you exactly how to create a color-perfect version yourself (It will require work) but I will include brand names for the best pigments. This I can't put in print, because companies in the business of making money don't want what they know to become public information.The important thing is color will look right with minimal effort with best Parkerizing, (Not thin) like Shooter Solutions'.
Do not use old motor oil or any other technique using sulfer with Shooter Solutions', because Sulfer is absorbed into motor oil because it is corrossive to steel. It will react with the Nickel, but corroding the Nickel is not as good for longevity as leaving it strong, and using the color method.
The technique is not given here, but by phone with purchase of Zinc Parkerizing.
Note: Orders with no issues are shipping out within 48 (business) hours of ordering.About us | Moly-Fusion, MolyFusion | RUGGED GUN BLUE | PARKERIZING | Testimonials |
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e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org?subject=help no internet connection: phone is better. me