Gun Blue Service and Prep
For as much work as the putter in the video, the painstaking hours of craftsmanship work, not painting, even here, not including the nylon clear coat, a fair price begins at $249.99. And, according to Gary is well worth it.
Send your putter to the Titleist Company and have them paint it for you. And have it rust immediately upon getting it back. If the putter requires the detailing required for a Scotty Cameron, it will be $50.00 more. If there is little rust and pitting then it will be $50.00 less. Nylon clear coat is more.
Go ahead and let them paint it for you. I guess golfers prefer paint. So on to guns. At least one golfer prefered blue to paint, but I guess there is not one person on the planet that is interested.
This is terminated because not a single person in the entire World is interested.
Full price based on rust and pitting, discounted if not nearly as bad as what it could be. Depending, $50.00 off if in prestine condition and no extensive damage, but "Sale Price" of $50.00 off will reflect that. $200.00 is based on in like condition as the video because preparation alone before bluing is measured in 4 hours or more of under-the-glass work, precision work.
A video of a Scotty Cameron Titleist circa 1999 Putter work on bluing, and optional Nylon coat as well as bluing is shown at Gun Blue. Before you buy another service remember it is done under a laboratory magnifying glass not by sight and is not painted black and white and copper. Only paint in the engraving. See description below. To select this service the order button must be orderable and you must add to your cart 2nd day UPS and insurance as it applies. It will not be shipped UPS ground, Priority mail, nor uninsured. Quantity of incoming internet orders for fast service will be regulated by whether the order button is hot.
Chrome-moly or carbon steel only, not Stainless Steel.
Incoming was a valuable golf club like a Scotty Cameron Putter.
The box should be delivered by air and not ground and be well packed so it will not rattle and insured for its full value. I check to make sure it is still in that condition. I make the same disclaimer the Titleist shop makes with respect to damage: you need to properly pack and insure it, and there is no monetary warranty if you do not insure except you money will be refunded and no work will be done to the damaged or missing putter. No paint will be applied on the putter. Only paint fill will be added as appropriate into all of the engraving as necessary to restore the colors, not just a couple of them, especially important for the copper paint, as this bluing will blue unprotected copper paint to a nice black.
- My goal is to please
- Look at what we offer - provided you do not need shaft or handle work - with respect to metal restoration. Metal restoration is rustproof bluing will not cover it up with paint. In any case many hours of professional metalurgy restoration including detailing as in paint fill per putter is not going to come cheap because not painting does not come cheap. Spray paint IS cheap. What a horrible taste in my mouth! I will not be party to spray painting onto bare metal, it won't stick: to the fading bluing, the rust will start poking through again within a year! Because paint on heated rust will not last nearly as long as bluing and oil! Get rid of the rust! With pitting, weight of the metal drops: the metal has to go somewhere. Do NOT use acids and bluing removers, as they lighten the club!! (The metal is dissolved into the bluing/rust remover/cleaner which dissolves steel and copper, as measured in weight and thousandths of an inch or precision calipers when it runs amok.) Bluing adds weight back in.
- Before accepting the box, the box is first checked for any shipping damage to the box.
- If there is a problem with the way the box looks or the way it sounds inside the UPS driver helps.
- Then the putter is carefully removed, inspected under the glass, and weighed.
- The incoming weight is recorded as well as incoming condition and kept with the item so the owner's information will not be lost.
- The reason it is weighed is to insure extra caution during prep of the putter head to not alter the swinging weight by even a portion of a gram in mass if possible. A portion of a gram is really small.
- Thorough nonrusting non acid degrease. Nonremoval to all finishes.
- Heavy repair
- Sharp protrusions filed
- Cleaning through heavy oxidation etc to see the metal and pitting under glass
- Mechanical wire wheel with steel as neccesary on inside surfaces to remove rust
- Use hand brushing for minor repair of rust and if there is any pitting in the brass. Oxidized or rusted Pitting in the copper weight looks black when jewel-shined
- Under the laboratory-grade glass make sure all rust is removed but no pitting or qouges are removed as the ending weight needs to be the same to have the same strike force as before.
- Using many grits of polishing-sanding on the surface after inside surfaces are perfectly clear under the glass, the surface is brought to a mirror-quality shine, both copper and steel.
- Cleaning off of all grit and dust from Preparation stage, though this is a continuous thing in the Preparation stage to look at it under the glass.
Bluing is done under bright light fully immersed after the shaft is taped to prevent damage.
- Any imperfections in the bluing: unblued portions seen by naked eye or under glass are cleaned and re-immersion blued.
- Regardless to whether more preparation work is to be done it is force dried quickly under a commercial low temperature heat gun so no epoxy is melted nor any rust begins.
Detailing under glass.
Before finishing it must be detailed. Paint touch-up in all engraved surfaces: white for white detailing, copper for copper paint detailing, and the white spots are silicone, so just must be white.
Another GlassIf anything is wrong now, back to fixing before the next step.
If the part is to be oil as the final finish, after 24 hours the oil is applied to it and polished to a mirror surface again and a shipping cloth to protect it from rust during shipping.
- If you want an strong clear coat on it - I don't know how it will hold up to putting, it will have a coating sprayed on it instead of the oil, but it will be more resistant to wear than the best industrial acrylic, since it will be enamel, way stronger acrylic, but has to be put on a dry surface not a wet surface. And it will be dried first.
- Or for additional cost, it can have a flexible Nylon clear coat that will hold up to putting I think for decades, rather than years even better than an oil finish will do. And it will not to be oiled anywhere it is intact. Only abrasion will remove it, putting, solvents, water and Coca Cola will not damage it. It will also bring the ending weight equal to the starting weight, instead of being the ever-shrinking putter. For the nylon coat, a final inspection under glass to make sure it is perfect
Due to the size of the putter head, a lighted laboratory-grade magnification is used for all inspection points to maintain high quality
The putter is weighed the same way - balanced head up - on the same scale to ensure the customer is getting back the same weight it started out as, or as close as possible to the original. This requires much more time in polishing to make sure the surface is treated such as the mass of the metal is a jewel because it is.
- It needs to swing with the same weight.