Green for Parkerizing Conversion

A Quart of this Green is used for fast and easy conversion to the military-green hue added to high-density gray-charcoal gray parkerizing finishes. You use it straight from the bottle, undiluted. It is a commercial product, just like the parkerizing, with the additional hazard of including some lead pigment in the industrial resin, which means it is not to be eaten. It has to be soaked and rubbed into the fresh, hot Parkerizing at the same time you are rubbing any excess iron out. The industrial resin-dye must be pressed into the finish, and it is designed to work much quicker than letting parts soak in Cosmoline for the required number of years. In other words, it must be a more efficient method than cosmoline: it worked, but it was SLOW. Wear nylon or equiv. gloves, as it contains lead in the pigment and Industrial solvent. Once enough of it is trapped in the Parkerizing, you should be in good shape. A Terry cloth is the proper type of cloth. It is HAZMAT ORMD, just like the Parkerizing.

The directions to use tell you to use this in a separated container to dip newly parkerized parts and keep wet with an inexpensive brush. Wearing rubber gloves, take a piece of cloth with some green on it, and wipe the part off the same time you are rubbing it into the crystalline structure. Plan on 20 minutes concerted rubbing. Remember it contains lead, and is an industrial item.

Repeat the dip process one time with the rubbing if necessary. Once it "takes", it will only come off by combination wire wheeling and solvent. It is hard to remove, it bonds so well. It is the same color as the Cosmoline, just more concentrated.

Sizes: 1=Quart.

Containers are special containers that handle this product inside.

I sincerely apologize this very effective green is discontinued because it needs to be refomulated to a less effective but ORMD shipping-correct non-lead and/or non-super-bad solvent, but if you start with the Parkerizing-correct Heavy-Duty Industrial Zinc (Nickel-Zinc or Zinc-Nickel to be exact) Parkerizing, I will verbally instruct you exactly how to create a color-perfect version yourself (It will require work) but I will include brand names for the best pigments. This I can't put in print, because companies in the business of making money don't want what they know to become public information.The important thing is color will look right with minimal effort with best Parkerizing, (Not thin) like Shooter Solutions'.

Do not use old motor oil or any other technique using sulfer with Shooter Solutions', because Sulfer is absorbed into motor oil because it is corrossive to steel. It will react with the Nickel, but corroding the Nickel is not as good for longevity as leaving it strong, and using the color method.

The technique is not given here, but by phone with purchase of Zinc Parkerizing.

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