It works. I got an increase in accuracy after using it. But the greatest and most noticable effect was that the barrel didn't heat up as much after about twice as mch shooting as befoe. I'll keep using it.
Shamus same thread
So your saying a mitten for my muzzle is a good thing
I've still not run 500 rounds through my barrel and for that reason have held off with any Moly treatment. That and I am still trying to grasp what is happening to a round when I pull the trigger. I'm not just talking about a barrel lube. I'm looking at bedding, harmonics, barrel crown, length, ambient temperature and the list goes on. Obviously there are a bunch of factors playing upon a fired round and no doubt you could take this to an extreme. What I need to know is what issues I can easily address every time I visit the range to be as consistent as possible. (Lets forget the "me" factor for now)
Bill, your particular set-up is certainly nothing similar to my VQ factory with Hogue stock. Is your barrel free floated and/or do you use a pad under the end of the barrel?
As for moly, how often should a barrel be treated? (Number of rounds fired) Can you remove moly from a barrel and if so how? What product should I use to clean my barrel and how often? How does a cleaner effect the Moly?
I should live in Missouri...
Followup (same thread) to Shamus that followed up Jonathan Doege's Post (Techshooter)
I bedded the action and the first inch in front of the mounting lug only, the rest full floats enough to run 2 business cards under it.
< As for MolyFusion treatment : The Volquartsen bore is so smooth (1-5 Micro Finish) and uniform in diameter that there is basically no breakin needed. MolyFusion treating a VQ bore is not when you do it BUT if you do it. I did mine early on and noticed that it picked up a little velocity uniformity AND ease of cleaning. I think I ran only 100 rounds thru it before treating it. I've run probably 5 bricks thru it and only retreated it after the first 1000 rounds.
It is just as accurate now as it was after the first 1200 rounds. I will retreat it after 5000 rounds.
It won't hurt anything to do it except improve the life of bore and reduce wear and fouling to almost nothing.
MolyFusion basically cannot be removed because it is NOT A COATING but becomes chemically bonded with the steel molecules making a heat reflective and much more friction free surface. Cleaning is a snap with a treated barrel. Bill
PS: I've treated every gun I own. ESPECIALLY the Ol' Black Powder ones. Made cleaning a real easy job. As you can tell I'm sold on it. In fact I even did my RWS airgun barrel and gained 80-90 fps velocity.
Technical research by luvtolean, ME: (Same thread, pondering the ME Science behind the reported results.)
...Molybdenum has a very high melting point, 2894K (4750ºF) so from that persepective it could be used as a refractory metal...
I can assure you ... about the thermal conductivity. This is an easily checked material property. Most books use "k" to symbolize thermal conductivity, and the metric units are W(atts)/ [m(eter) * K(elvin)]
From my heat transfer book here are a couple of k values (at 300K (80.3ºF)) to ponder (higher conducts more heat):
molybdenum: 138 (W/m-K)
plain carbon steel: 60.1 (W/m-K)
AISI Stainless 302: 15.1 (W/m-K)
Now of course, this doesn't argue against moly-fusion in any way, it just helps explain why it works. If someone wants to spend $25 bucks on it and is happy, I have no problem with that. But this exercise is forcing me to think about what happens to a gun barrel during firing, which is pretty fun. You may all think I'm overanalyzing, but I do this kinda stuff for a living, so it's how I think. And to me it's interesting...