4C for Wet Processes

USING 4C™ AHEAD OF A "WET" PROCESS

e.g. Blueing, Plating, Anodizing. where drying may not be the final step.

WHY USE?

• 4C™ will surgically remove all rust, oxide, and contaminant even into the pitting that nothing else will remove without rounding over the edges of the metal or removing large quantity of good metal like competing acids do. (As long as the conversion coating does not "fight" the next process.)
• Do not use for Parkerizing and especially not for Phosphating except for the last piece for a batch of solution. The reaction limits the "bite" of the Parkerizing and ruins the solution for further use - so no general use. In general do not use 4C for any acid after-process because acid attacks just as salt does.
• Properly used 4C™ will always enhance corrosion tests for all processes it is compatible for.
• It has shown to have convenience quality if you have it on hand for applied cold bluing and immersion hot salt-bluing.

PREPARATION FOR THIS PRODUCT:

1. Prepare the metal first, physically removing the existing finish with Sand blasting, Wire Brush, or Naval Jelly.
2. Protect surfaces NOT to be exposed to 4C: This includes all Plated surfaces and surfaces to be protected from the 4C.

USING THIS PRODUCT:

1. Makes sure to clean off all specs of sand and dirt without rusting it, as it will dissolve into the 4C, effecting a sludge! (See step 7 below).
2. Apply 4C™ by spray/brush thoroughly to metal surfaces, wetting thoroughly,
3. Let soak for a minimum of 30 seconds and an absolute maximum of 2 minutes. (Longer is not better.)
4. Soak in running water or agitated water for 90 seconds (and no more). (Or immerse into 150 degree water for 45 seconds, long enough to warm up the parts a bit.) Only use cold water if this is to dry first before using the "wet" solution! - Warm water starts to remove the coating within 5 seconds!!
5. Then immediately immerse the parts into the water-based solution.
6. If not immediately starting the next process (step "5"), put part(s) in oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes to completely bake off all the water.
7. If there is a "cottage cheese" effect, see step 1, where lots of white stuff (the dissolved sand) comes off with the coating into the solution, you will need to filter it out before adding additional parts. Either cool with a coffee filter (When solution cools, you can't get all of it), or hot with fine plastic paint strainer. (Hot solution is very dangerous).
8. It is NOT recommended for ANY reactive process such as physical "abrasion to the metal retardant": Nor should be used for any "acid immersion" or acid-etching primers and paints. It fights Parkerizing, Cold Bluing(?), MolyFusion, etc because it clearly doesn't allow a deep bite "through" the coating it imparts into the metal. Good is plating, welding, non-etch primers and paints, because they all incorporate the conversion surface in a useful way.
9. All of these directions presume a cold process application of the 4C.

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Created for the web on July 08, 2004